SummerTime Tips

HELLO READERS! 

I know I've disappeared for a moment but Im back now. Sorry! Ive missed you too! Hopefully everyone is having a great summer. To help keep it great and to help keep your hair in tip-top condition, here are a few tips to get you through the summer wear and tear.

1. SWIMMERS: Always, Always, ALWAYS shampoo your hair after swimming, especially in pools. The water is full of harmful chemicals that can change how your hair looks and feels. A few companies, such as Redken offer an "after swim" shampoo that you can look into using.

2.  MOISTURIZE... I can't stress this enough. Proper moisture is the key to healthy hair. The sun rays and other factors can effect the way your hair feels. By keeping it moisturized you battle dryness which can lead to breakage and perhaps an unwanted haircut!

3.  COVER YOUR HEAD: If by chance you dont prefer to deal with your hair, you can shampoo it properly, use a great conditioner and cover your dome with a nice sunhat or ball cap. By doing this you also get added protection from the sun. Even if you aren't showing your locks you should still keep them in good condition, with our without the hat.

4.  NO WET PONYTAILS:  Ladies I know you have a habit of pulling your wet hair into ponytails. Whether its after swimming or sweating in the gym. PLEASE STOP!  By constricting your hair while its wet, you risk constant breakage. Be sure your hair is fully dry and that your hair ties/clips aren't too tight.

5.  SHY AWAY FROM BACK TO BACK CHEMICALS:  By this I mean, don't go into the salon and get a chemical service performed (ie: relaxer, color, perm) then get into a pool full of chlorine (also a chemical). By doing this you risk severe dryness and breakage. Talk with your stylist about your summer plans and schedule before getting a chemical service.

This was just a few tips to get you started. I hope everyone has a safe and fun summer! Stay posted while I add more updates and tips.

 

Mo' HAIR!

Continuing The Blog....

ATTENTION READERS:

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~FARRAH~

Weighing Your Options

In life, when seeking change, it is important to weigh your options in order to figure out if the change is worthwhile. The same rules apply when contemplating a change in hairstyle.  Sometimes people make drastic decisions based on circumstances, emotions or lifestyle, only to feel trapped in their new "do" or to find out that its not working for them. Being prepared and researching your future style is as important as having the right stylist to service you. So before you go any further, consider these tips:

1. Schedule a consultation. After you have decided on your stylist of choice, research the type of styles that you are considering. Check online for pictures as well as various hair magazines. Have many options in mind.

2. Make a list. Consider the pros and cons of your current hairstyle. Also make a list of what you would like to achieve from the future hairstyle. Be true to yourself about what you like and don’t like.

3. Ask questions. Once you have your pictures and your list, ask the stylist how each look is achieved AND maintained. Also go over the cost of the service and the future costs in order to maintain your style.

4. Don't fear rejection. Be prepared to possibly be disappointed. The reality is that every style isn’t for everybody. As a stylist, that is his/her job to make sure that the look you are considering fits your face and features, as well as your hair texture. But don’t fret, you can mix and match different styles for a custom look just for you.

5. Take your time.  Don’t make any drastic or hasty decisions. Relax and take time to think about all the information that you were given and which styles you like and don’t like. You have the final say.
 

Follow these few easy steps and I guarantee that you'll make the right decision for you. Who knows? You may even decide that your current style works the best and you end up making no changes. But its best to know these things in advance before you leave the salon as an unhappy customer.

Good luck and MO' HAIR!

How Soon Is Too Soon?

Everyone tries to get the most out of their style, usually by prolonging the time in between services. There are some instances where this is ok and times when it can work against you. Below you will find the proper amount of time to wait between your appointments. Take a look:

Permanent Color / Every 4-6 Weeks

The ideal time to wait is 4-6 weeks. If you are wearing another chemical service as well such as a relaxer or a perm make sure you wait at least 2-3 weeks between each chemical service in order to prevent massive breakage. If you have a finer texture of hair, you may also want to wait a little longer. Tip: Sticking to a shade closer to your natural color will make it easier for you. Your roots wont show as much. Not to mention the lighter you go the harsher it is on your hair.

Hair Extensions / 8weeks - 6months

There are many types of hair extensions; all in different price ranges and lasting different amounts of time. Leaving your extensions in longer than recommended can lead to tangles, hair loss, and breakage. I don't recommend you getting a service that you aren't willing to maintain properly. Know you limits. Of course every person is different and sometimes styles last longer than others as well as less time than others. But just because it still looks good to YOU 4months later, doesn't mean its good for your hair OR scalp. Extensions done with bonding glue are generally good for approx 2-3weeks MAX!  Sew-Ins 8weeks, Braids 2weeks-3months (depending on style and type of hair used, if any) and fusion anywhere from 3-6months. Ive seen some stylist advertise that they can last a year with proper maintenance. I don't doubt it, but that isn't for everyone. Use caution and seek a professional for all extension services. Tip: Be sure to shampoo your hair and scalp thoroughly. If your service was done with bonding glue it CAN NOT be shampooed.  All others please be sure to maintain healthy hair and scalp. Remember if a stylist tells you not to shampoo your hair with your extensions, (unless its bonding glue) DO IT ANYWAY... and find a new stylist.

Relaxer Touch Up / 4-8 Weeks

Every 6 weeks is the average amount of time between touch ups. Certain hair types and textures can go longer without suffering any damage. Keep in mind, if you are going to wait extended amounts of time between touch-ups, you must take EXTRA special care of your hair so that it doesn't break at the line of demarcation between new growth and previously relaxed hair. There are times when a 4week relaxer touch-up may be needed. This usually happens if a "corrective" relaxer needs to be done or for women who just need a little around the back and edges. My short haired friends can vouch for this ;) Tip: Make sure you wait the proper amount of time. Getting a relaxer too soon when there isn't enough new-growth can cause overlapping of chemicals which can weaken your hair structure and cause breakage.

Texturizer / 4weeks - 6months

You may notice the time frame on texturizers have a very wide range.  That is because it depends on the length of hair being processed. Those with shorter styles will probably get it more often... somewhere between 4-6weeks, while those with longer hair or fine textures will wait longer, only getting it done a couple times a year. See your stylist to find out what time frame is best for you.Tip: For those with shorter styles who like the curly look, if you keep hair cut regularly, it will increase the amount of curls. The longer it gets the more relaxed the curl pattern will be.

If I missed something that you have a question about, leave it in the comment section and I promise to return with an answer or advice for all :)

MO' HAIR!

Be Careful What You Ask For

Communication is a very important part of your salon or barbershop visit. It’s just as important as customer service and price. It is the job of the barber/stylist to make sure that the look you are requesting, works out to the best of his/her ability. True enough we are not magicians but with a proper consultation you can address your desires and concerns and the hair professional can address how that particular style suits your face and the upkeep needed to maintain it. Who knows, after a lengthy chat you may decide it’s not for you or you may have heard a different suggestion. So I’ve created a small list of popular hair terms that if used incorrectly can make or break a hairstyle... and definitely make or break your relationship with your stylist. Remember: Its up to you just as much as it is up to them to make sure you desires are coming across properly.

LAYERS: The most popular hair term. The basic definition of layers is cutting the hair so that it has different lengths. You can have layers at any length just understand the shorter the layer, the more volume that it creates.

FEATHER: Although its an older term, it pops up from time to time. This is hair that is brushed backwards (usually around the face)to resemble the feathers on a bird. This is more of a styling concern more than anything but for best results, layer this area and it'll give more of the "feathered" effect.

TAPER: This term is used on women’s short hairstyles and men’s cuts—basically meaning to gradually make shorter, thinner or narrower towards one end.  If you have longer hair, you may not want to get this confused with layers when making your request in the salon.  You will probably leave very upset!

STREAKS: Basically an older term for highlighting the hair. Highlights color individual strands of hair throughout your head in a shade that is lighter or brighter than your base color. If you are trying to fully cover gray hair, highlights are not for you.

COLOR: You have permanent color, semi-permanent and temporary rinses. Sometimes people come in and say they want a color but depending on what they are trying to achieve, it could be any of these options. A permanent color is just as it sounds. Meaning to remove it you either need to do a completely new color, cut it out or grow it out. None of it will come off while shampooing although red tones do fade a little. Semi –Permanent and Rinses are pretty similar—what makes them different is the amount of time that they last. A semi last a few weeks longer than a rinse but both will come off a little at a time during every shampoo. This is the only type of color that you should get when getting another chemical service done. PLEASE NOTE: YOU CANNOT GET A PERMANENT COLOR THE SAME DAY AS RELAXER OR PERM. 

Hope this helps you and if by chance you have another term that you don’t understand please feel free to click the comments and I'll answer you as soon as possible. 

MO' HAIR!

Moisture! Moisture! Moisture!

After a brief hiatus, I have returned to continue with the advice, products and etc.

Hope u missed me!

During my away time I seem to have had the same conversations over and over again, mostly with clients. The topic: MOISTURE!  Overly Dry hair and scalp is the usually the basis of most hair problems – mainly breakage, flaking and itching. The problem is, no one wants to moisturize his or her hair properly for fear of being weighed down or feeling greasy. But let me put it this way: Would you prefer heavy hair or no hair? Seems like an easy choice to me.

What people fail to realize is moisturizing doesn’t just stop at the hair; you have to get down to the scalp. After all, that is where the hair comes out of right? I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again… an unhealthy scalp will always lead to unhealthy hair.  I’ve seen many beautiful hairstyles…but what I’ve seen when I’ve parted the hair and gotten down to the scalp… well, I’ll spare you the details. But trust me, it’s not pretty. There are occasions where people can have TOO much moisture and it works against them. But the majority of us are not in that category. More often than not, people under moisturize.

African Americans need to moisturize a bit more than other races, due to our hair texture, which tends to dry out more than others. But all that does is change the TYPE of moisturizer that should be used. A heavier one would be needed in most cases, in the form of a grease or scalp cream. If you have hair that is finer or not very thick, a light scalp cream will do. Just look for the keywords “LIGHT and SCALP”. Another product that can be used is oil—if it’s not too heavy for your hair. You will find it in your beauty supply store and if you don’t feel like leaving the house, Olive Oil is also great. Found right at home in your kitchen. Sometimes you have to do a bit of trial and error to find the right product that’s not too heavy but not to light that its not doing anything for you. (And NO my friends… oil sheen isn’t going to do it.)

Other races of European, Asian or Latin descent will find these products too heavy and greasy for their hair. Don’t get me wrong, there are cases where heavier products are needed, but it’s usually on a case-by-case basis. So for those who are in the majority, treating your hair with oil can still help. A hot oil treatment once a week or every 2 weeks is an excellent option. Also unless you have naturally oily hair and absolutely NEED to shampoo daily, I suggest missing a day. Your scalp could use some of those natural oils that have built up and shampooing daily will rob you of that.

Remember folks, Conditioner is also a form of moisturizer so make sure you are using one that suits your hair needs and giving you all the moisture that you deserve. Your hair is depending on it!

WinterTime Hair Blues

If you are an avid reader of The Hair 411, then you recently read the post regarding springtime being on the way (and I can't wait)! But before we can get there, we still have to win this war with winter weather and its drying effects on our hair and scalp.

This has been a harsh winter all over the nation and people have sacrificed their hair just to stay warm! Its quick and easy to just throw a hat on and keep on steppin'. Although we are warm, that hat is doing nothing for the integrity of our hair. Most winter hats are wool or cotton, which is terrible for hair. The fabric is very drying and draws out the moisture that we need, which in turn leads to dry, brittle and broken hair. I frown at that! When possible wrap a silk or satin scarf on your head under your hat, to trap moisture and stop any possible friction.

The key to getting through these weather traumas is moisture. Its better to be over moisturized than to be under so keep a good stock of conditioner, hot oil treatments and moisturizers on hand. Also blow dry less and avoid too much cotton and/or wool items on your hair. Beware of turtlenecks because the constant friction at the base of your head (neckline) can cause damage when turning your head. I'm not saying don't wear them, just be careful. Perhaps drape a silk scarf around your neck for added protection.  You'll protect your hair and be fashionable all at the same time. :)

How To Get That Glow

Since childhood, everyone likes shiny things. Men love shiny cars, women love shiny jewelry…shiny items catches our attention. So why not catch the same attention with shiny hair? Make your style POP by adding some shine to it. There is nothing cute about a dull, drab hairstyle and lighter hair like blonds, tend to have less shine anyway. So let’s amp it up shall we?

OIL SHEEN - The 80’s and 90’s was full of oil sheen and many of us found we were addicted to it! The ozone layer is probably real pissed about it too! I use to carry a mini can in my purse throughout high school. For those who don’t know, oil sheen is an aerosol spray made up of oils and some smell goods. It’s used primarily in the black culture and its used to finish off a style and add a thin layer of shine and moisture. The problem is that too much can weigh your hair down and not to mention, all that oil will attract more dirt. The shine really doesn’t last very long then you find yourself needing to add more and more and more.

HAIR POLISH -  Hair polish is a lot lighter than oil sheen and doesn’t add moisture, its just purely shine. I must admit I have come across a few that has a bit of oil in them, but generally they are oil free. This is a good product for any hair type, especially those with fine hair, because it’s not too heavy. One or two pumps is all you need.

SERUM / CREAMS –  For thicker, coarser or hair that is fairly dry, a serum or cream may be your best bet. These are quite a bit thicker than the previous two items, but they coat the hair shaft to form a protective layer, usually used before any heat styling occurs. In a jar, in a pump or in a bottle, these items are in a liquid or solid form and rubbed between your hands before applying. You can use it on wet or dry hair, just be careful when adding it to wet hair because its harder to judge how much you are using until its too late. If you use too much you may have a greasy mess and will have to start the shampooing process over again.

GLAZE – A hair glaze is usually done in the salon and applied by a professional. It is similar to a rinse and is mixed with peroxide or processing liquid, to provide a longer glow instead of having to use products every day. Basically its like a top coat for your hair. You can find hair glaze products to use at home, but many times they are stronger than what is used in the salon. I suggest letting a professional do it for you. The results last a few weeks, depending how often you shampoo your hair.

Gloss, glaze, polish, sheen…they seem all the same but trust me they are all a bit different. Another thing to remember is that there are some hair gloss products that add color or will lift your color as well as adding gloss, so know what you are trying to achieve and know what you are using if you are attempting this at home. Shine on!

The Sleeping Beauty

How many nights have you gotten minimal sleep because you are trying to preserve your hairstyle?  This may not be relevant in other cultures, but this is a trying issue for women in the black community. You’ve waited all week for your appointment, stayed all day in the salon and avoided rain, humidity and sweat to maintain your look. But nighttime always comes and sleep is needed. So now what do you do- Sleep Pretty?

There is no need for you to sleep upright in order to still look cute in the morning. For years, you have been told, “Just wrap your hair up”. WRONG! Unfortunately, that is not the answer for every style. When preparing to lie down for the night, think about the shape of your hairstyle. Why tie something flat around your head if you are trying to maintain fullness? The wrong headgear can ruin a style more than if you didn’t do anything at all! So here are a few suggestions:

The bonnet is good for curly styles. Sets, afro’s, braids…actually any style. It works just like a shower cap, without being plastic. Comfortable and plenty of ventilation, so don’t worry, you won’t wake up sweating.

This is a good one for short styles. You can keep your style in order up top without having to tie it all down and re-curl every morning. Too much heat styling is never a good thing so getting through the night is imperative. This is also a good idea for medium-longer styles that are fairly straight with just a little volume up top. You can roll the top with about 5 Velcro rollers and wrap up the bottom and finish off with this type of wrap.

These types of full headscarves are great for styles that are smooth, straight or flat, like cornrows for example. If you aren't interested in having volume or body and you prefer a smoother style, then this is what you should be using. Full coverage scarves come in many styles and are easy to find every from beauty supply stores to Walmart and CVS.

Although its African American women who mainly use these items, I would suggest them for anyone. Does your long hair get in your way at night? Do you find your significant other lying on top of it? Then you too should consider these options.  And for those of you, who absolutely can't sleep with this, don't want to or your MATE doesn't want you to, then set your hair free!

  Just be sure to replace your cotton-covered pillow with a satin or silk pillowcase, to maintain moisture and prevent breakage. Good luck & Sweet Dreams!

Hair Recipes - Print & Post

 Great hair care products can be costly. And with our current economic situations, many people have opted to sacrifice their manes, in exchange for basic survival of these hard times.  But don’t fear! Even if we are broke, we don’t have to look like we are.  Your kitchen is full of items that can be used to help maintain the integrity of your hair until your next appointment. Beautiful hair doesn’t have to be expensive as you'll see below:

The Great Dryer Debate

“How long do I have to stay under here?” 
    That is the question most asked in salons (besides prices).

But is the answer always “an hour”?
     
     Proper drying time is essential when trying to achieve a particular style. In many cases, not drying properly can cause frizz and even mildew.  This happens more often with styles where the scalp isn’t easily accessible. (Example: Sew INS & Updos).

     But does EVERY style require sweating for an hour? Um…No! Dryer time is determined by hair length, thickness and type of product in the hair. Some products that are of lighter consistency dry much faster than heavy creams & gels used to set or mold hairstyles in place. Foaming products and setting lotions are the quickest ways to go when dryer time is needed. Just be sure not to over do it

     True enough there are stylist who put you under the dryer as a way of buying more time for themselves. Its cruel, but it’s the truth (don’t tell them I told you:). But let's be real; I haven’t always been a hairstylist. I was once where you are now and I knew at age 18 that my short crop style did NOT require 1 ½ hours of intense heat! When picking your style, consult with your stylist about the required drying times. I’ve had clients that routinely pick styles that require little to no dryer time. In many cases, the stylist wishes you didn't have to sit so long either, since it makes their day flow a bit faster and keeps the room at an even temperature. We'll just add this to the list of "necessary evils".

     You can make your dryer experience go a bit faster with a good magazine, an Ipod or MP3 player or even a good nap! Excessive bathroom trips, reaching for new magazines, trying to talk on the phone or having your head hanging out so that you can hear the latest gossip, will just prolong the process.

Just know it'll all be worth it in the end, when heads start turning :)

Remember....Beauty is pain!

       

                

Nairobi Wrapp-It Shine                                                Foaming Lotion      

                                                              Paul Mitchell 

                                                Foaming Pomade

                                      *not recommended for fine or thin hair*

 

   

Shedding vs Breakage --Get The Facts

     Many times our hair goes through changes for many reasons. Weather, age, environment, stress, diet, medication, hereditary, products and sometimes just because that’s what hair does. The first key to combating these changes is to find out what is causing these issues and determining if your issue is shedding or breakage. If you find that nothing in your life has changed, then just assume it’s the natural shedding process that hair goes through. Whether we like it or not, hair sheds approximately 50-150 strands per day. However, breakage isn’t supposed to happen.

Houston, we have a problem.

     When your hair sheds it will come out at the full length of your hair. In other words, it’s coming out at the root. Anything shorter than your hair length is breakage. Overly dry hair and scalp is the #1 reason your hair will break. MOISTURE, MOISTURE, MOISTURE – I cant stress it enough because we all need it. You know what its like to feel thirsty, so imagine what your hair is feeling!

     In most cases breakage requires a haircut of some sort. Now exactly how much you will need to cut depends on how severe your damage is (seek a professional for consultation). In this instance you want to do moisture and/or protein treatments weekly or bi-weekly, to get your hair back in order. This can be done in the salon or go to your local beauty supply and pick up some conditioner for home. You should change your pillowcases to silk or satin, it helps in retaining moisture. Also drink plenty of water; add more protein and veggies to your diet and most of all, BE PATIENT!

     I know, I know…easier said than done. But hair grows at its own pace, regardless of what ad you see on TV or in the back of your favorite magazine. (We’ll touch on this in the future). Breakage is never a happy time; we’ve all been there. But one good thing that can come from this is a new hair-do! Possible styles depend on the location of your problem. For example, if you have breakage at the nape of your neck, then a cute bob style may come out of this. An all over super short cut isn’t always required just because you have breakage; this is where a consultation comes in. And if you are a bit hesitant about what that stylist is telling you, feel free to seek another professional. Consultations are generally free anywhere you go. Remember: The true definition of good hair is HEALTHY hair!

**Great products to try**

Please note: Some products may be available for purchase in salon only

 
Nioxin Deep Repair Hair Mask

Essations Moisture Sheen Conditioner
ApHogee Keratin 2-Minute Reconstructor 

      

Trimmed Ends - What A Good Look

      The battle continues between client and stylist when it comes to trimming ends. Consider it a necessary evil, but necessary nonetheless. That “length” that you are holding onto isn’t cute…because the people behind you can see through it - Ha!

      But seriously, your hair needs trimming approximately every 6 weeks, unless you are drying it out and damaging it more with excessive heat and styling, then you may require more (which you do NOT want to happen). African-American women are the worst at this, mainly because our hair does not grow as fast as other races. Therefore the sistas are more likely to not get it done out of fear that it wont grow back. But trust me, it does and it grows back in healthier form. When you get your ends trimmed on a regular schedule you shouldn’t lose more than ¼ of an inch. It’s when you DON’T trim it on time that you lose more than you wanted or expected.

     I understand there are many hairstylists out there who have ruined your trust when it comes to anyone coming close to your locks with anything sharp. But I promise, there are many of us who do understand the difference between a trim and a haircut. Ask your stylist to show you what they are cutting and what you need removed.  Just understand if you have 2 inches of split ends (for whatever reason) you need to cut 2 inches. Cutting 1 inch means you still have 1 inch of split ends and not getting it done completely is just like not getting it done at all, so be realistic.

A trim is off of the very ends of your hair shaft. If you came in with 700 layers you should leave with 700 layers…just layers with even ends. If you came in with layers and leave out all one length, you just got a haircut (and are probably instantly ticked off).  Now if every time you get your hair done the stylist wants to trim your ends, its one of 4 reasons:

1.    You don’t come in often enough so its that time again

2.    You didn’t cut enough off and still have split ends

3.    Damage is occurring somewhere between appointments

4.    You have a scissor happy stylist…. Run! 

If you wear a relaxed style, get your ends trimmed when you get your 6week touch-up so that you can stay on schedule. If you go natural, wear braids, weaves or only go into the salon for color touch ups, trim it during those appointments as well. So in a few of those instances, it may very well be 8 weeks, but I wouldn't suggest going any longer. Good luck and  Mo’ Hair!

The Introduction

Welcome to The Hair 411 by Farrah

Here you will find advice, cute styles, product info and more! Join in the fun & post your questions, comments, and experiences or just vent your hair frustrations. But please be respectful because it’s all love!

Any questions I can answer or suggestions to the page, please just post it and it shall be addressed to the best of my ability. Be sure to bookmark this page and send it to your friends and family. Thanks for your support and as we say in the business – Mo’Hair!!!