SummerTime Tips

HELLO READERS! 

I know I've disappeared for a moment but Im back now. Sorry! Ive missed you too! Hopefully everyone is having a great summer. To help keep it great and to help keep your hair in tip-top condition, here are a few tips to get you through the summer wear and tear.

1. SWIMMERS: Always, Always, ALWAYS shampoo your hair after swimming, especially in pools. The water is full of harmful chemicals that can change how your hair looks and feels. A few companies, such as Redken offer an "after swim" shampoo that you can look into using.

2.  MOISTURIZE... I can't stress this enough. Proper moisture is the key to healthy hair. The sun rays and other factors can effect the way your hair feels. By keeping it moisturized you battle dryness which can lead to breakage and perhaps an unwanted haircut!

3.  COVER YOUR HEAD: If by chance you dont prefer to deal with your hair, you can shampoo it properly, use a great conditioner and cover your dome with a nice sunhat or ball cap. By doing this you also get added protection from the sun. Even if you aren't showing your locks you should still keep them in good condition, with our without the hat.

4.  NO WET PONYTAILS:  Ladies I know you have a habit of pulling your wet hair into ponytails. Whether its after swimming or sweating in the gym. PLEASE STOP!  By constricting your hair while its wet, you risk constant breakage. Be sure your hair is fully dry and that your hair ties/clips aren't too tight.

5.  SHY AWAY FROM BACK TO BACK CHEMICALS:  By this I mean, don't go into the salon and get a chemical service performed (ie: relaxer, color, perm) then get into a pool full of chlorine (also a chemical). By doing this you risk severe dryness and breakage. Talk with your stylist about your summer plans and schedule before getting a chemical service.

This was just a few tips to get you started. I hope everyone has a safe and fun summer! Stay posted while I add more updates and tips.

 

Mo' HAIR!

Weighing Your Options

In life, when seeking change, it is important to weigh your options in order to figure out if the change is worthwhile. The same rules apply when contemplating a change in hairstyle.  Sometimes people make drastic decisions based on circumstances, emotions or lifestyle, only to feel trapped in their new "do" or to find out that its not working for them. Being prepared and researching your future style is as important as having the right stylist to service you. So before you go any further, consider these tips:

1. Schedule a consultation. After you have decided on your stylist of choice, research the type of styles that you are considering. Check online for pictures as well as various hair magazines. Have many options in mind.

2. Make a list. Consider the pros and cons of your current hairstyle. Also make a list of what you would like to achieve from the future hairstyle. Be true to yourself about what you like and don’t like.

3. Ask questions. Once you have your pictures and your list, ask the stylist how each look is achieved AND maintained. Also go over the cost of the service and the future costs in order to maintain your style.

4. Don't fear rejection. Be prepared to possibly be disappointed. The reality is that every style isn’t for everybody. As a stylist, that is his/her job to make sure that the look you are considering fits your face and features, as well as your hair texture. But don’t fret, you can mix and match different styles for a custom look just for you.

5. Take your time.  Don’t make any drastic or hasty decisions. Relax and take time to think about all the information that you were given and which styles you like and don’t like. You have the final say.
 

Follow these few easy steps and I guarantee that you'll make the right decision for you. Who knows? You may even decide that your current style works the best and you end up making no changes. But its best to know these things in advance before you leave the salon as an unhappy customer.

Good luck and MO' HAIR!

Product of the Week

Mizani MoistureFusion

Milk Bath Shampoo

Mizani is a brand targeted towards African Americans, but I have used select products in clients' of other races hair. This shampoo is formulated with silk proteins and milk of almond extract (which probably gives it the scent that reeled me in! Mmmm!)  I love the scent and feel of this shampoo. If you are in need of moisture (like most of us are) then give a try. I think you will like it and if you don"t send the rest to me... 

I LOVE IT :)

For more information please visit the Mizani website.

**Available for purchase at select professional salons & beauty stores near you**

Prom -Which style do I wear?

Happy MAY everybody! :)

Do you know what May brings? The only time in a girl's life (besides her wedding day) where she will do everything possible in order to make sure her hair, nails, skin and outfit is 100% up to par! Yes Ladies & Gents:   

IT'S PROM SEASON :)

These days it doesn’t seem to be as big a deal as it was back when I was growing up, but I personally think it’s a time that every young lady should experience. Yes the fellas are needed to escort the ladies, but let's be honest, just like a wedding, this day is more often steered by the prom go-er (and her mother).

So with that being said you want your hairstyle to evenly match your dress. If your dress has a lot of accents on it, you don’t want to wear an up do that is too "busy". It’s tricky when it comes to matching hairstyles to a person's face and neckline of the chosen dress.

Here are a few tips:

1.      About a month before the prom, seek a professional stylist to help you achieve your look. Bring in pictures, magazines or anything else you can find of ideas for your style. 

2.      Be sure to bring a picture of your dress or be able to accurately explain the neckline to your stylist. Is your dress a halter? Strapless? High neck? V-neck? These things matter so bring all the valuable information.  At that time your stylist can go over which styles work with your dress and face structure.

3.      Be open to options. Remember every style isn’t for everybody. By working together you can mix and match ideas to come up with something unique for you and your look. 

4.       Wear a button down shirt. There's nothing worse than having the cutest style then completely ruin it by pulling off a t-shirt while trying to get into the shower.

5.       After deciding on a look, schedule your time accordingly. If you know you have extremely long or thick hair or you are getting a style that takes some time, don’t schedule your appointment 3 hours before you need to be there. This is a special day… you don’t want to rush your style (or stylist!)

6.       Understand the cost. This isn’t your average wash and style service. Many stylists move their regular clientele to accommodate those going to prom. These courtesies sometimes go unnoticed but usually worked into the cost of your style. Time and creativity is being put into your special day and 9 times out of 10 it is a style that you wont have again and don’t usually wear, so be understanding on why the cost are a bit steeper.

7.       If extensions are needed, don’t get it done THAT day. I suggest going in a few days prior (or even a week) and then coming in on prom day for a styling. Extensions are time consuming and more than likely the stylist has other clients that day. This may cause an issue with your time schedule, so to save yourself some stress and/or hassle, just don’t do it.

Hopefully everyone will have a safe prom season. Send me a pic! :) 

How Soon Is Too Soon?

Everyone tries to get the most out of their style, usually by prolonging the time in between services. There are some instances where this is ok and times when it can work against you. Below you will find the proper amount of time to wait between your appointments. Take a look:

Permanent Color / Every 4-6 Weeks

The ideal time to wait is 4-6 weeks. If you are wearing another chemical service as well such as a relaxer or a perm make sure you wait at least 2-3 weeks between each chemical service in order to prevent massive breakage. If you have a finer texture of hair, you may also want to wait a little longer. Tip: Sticking to a shade closer to your natural color will make it easier for you. Your roots wont show as much. Not to mention the lighter you go the harsher it is on your hair.

Hair Extensions / 8weeks - 6months

There are many types of hair extensions; all in different price ranges and lasting different amounts of time. Leaving your extensions in longer than recommended can lead to tangles, hair loss, and breakage. I don't recommend you getting a service that you aren't willing to maintain properly. Know you limits. Of course every person is different and sometimes styles last longer than others as well as less time than others. But just because it still looks good to YOU 4months later, doesn't mean its good for your hair OR scalp. Extensions done with bonding glue are generally good for approx 2-3weeks MAX!  Sew-Ins 8weeks, Braids 2weeks-3months (depending on style and type of hair used, if any) and fusion anywhere from 3-6months. Ive seen some stylist advertise that they can last a year with proper maintenance. I don't doubt it, but that isn't for everyone. Use caution and seek a professional for all extension services. Tip: Be sure to shampoo your hair and scalp thoroughly. If your service was done with bonding glue it CAN NOT be shampooed.  All others please be sure to maintain healthy hair and scalp. Remember if a stylist tells you not to shampoo your hair with your extensions, (unless its bonding glue) DO IT ANYWAY... and find a new stylist.

Relaxer Touch Up / 4-8 Weeks

Every 6 weeks is the average amount of time between touch ups. Certain hair types and textures can go longer without suffering any damage. Keep in mind, if you are going to wait extended amounts of time between touch-ups, you must take EXTRA special care of your hair so that it doesn't break at the line of demarcation between new growth and previously relaxed hair. There are times when a 4week relaxer touch-up may be needed. This usually happens if a "corrective" relaxer needs to be done or for women who just need a little around the back and edges. My short haired friends can vouch for this ;) Tip: Make sure you wait the proper amount of time. Getting a relaxer too soon when there isn't enough new-growth can cause overlapping of chemicals which can weaken your hair structure and cause breakage.

Texturizer / 4weeks - 6months

You may notice the time frame on texturizers have a very wide range.  That is because it depends on the length of hair being processed. Those with shorter styles will probably get it more often... somewhere between 4-6weeks, while those with longer hair or fine textures will wait longer, only getting it done a couple times a year. See your stylist to find out what time frame is best for you.Tip: For those with shorter styles who like the curly look, if you keep hair cut regularly, it will increase the amount of curls. The longer it gets the more relaxed the curl pattern will be.

If I missed something that you have a question about, leave it in the comment section and I promise to return with an answer or advice for all :)

MO' HAIR!

Moisture! Moisture! Moisture!

After a brief hiatus, I have returned to continue with the advice, products and etc.

Hope u missed me!

During my away time I seem to have had the same conversations over and over again, mostly with clients. The topic: MOISTURE!  Overly Dry hair and scalp is the usually the basis of most hair problems – mainly breakage, flaking and itching. The problem is, no one wants to moisturize his or her hair properly for fear of being weighed down or feeling greasy. But let me put it this way: Would you prefer heavy hair or no hair? Seems like an easy choice to me.

What people fail to realize is moisturizing doesn’t just stop at the hair; you have to get down to the scalp. After all, that is where the hair comes out of right? I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again… an unhealthy scalp will always lead to unhealthy hair.  I’ve seen many beautiful hairstyles…but what I’ve seen when I’ve parted the hair and gotten down to the scalp… well, I’ll spare you the details. But trust me, it’s not pretty. There are occasions where people can have TOO much moisture and it works against them. But the majority of us are not in that category. More often than not, people under moisturize.

African Americans need to moisturize a bit more than other races, due to our hair texture, which tends to dry out more than others. But all that does is change the TYPE of moisturizer that should be used. A heavier one would be needed in most cases, in the form of a grease or scalp cream. If you have hair that is finer or not very thick, a light scalp cream will do. Just look for the keywords “LIGHT and SCALP”. Another product that can be used is oil—if it’s not too heavy for your hair. You will find it in your beauty supply store and if you don’t feel like leaving the house, Olive Oil is also great. Found right at home in your kitchen. Sometimes you have to do a bit of trial and error to find the right product that’s not too heavy but not to light that its not doing anything for you. (And NO my friends… oil sheen isn’t going to do it.)

Other races of European, Asian or Latin descent will find these products too heavy and greasy for their hair. Don’t get me wrong, there are cases where heavier products are needed, but it’s usually on a case-by-case basis. So for those who are in the majority, treating your hair with oil can still help. A hot oil treatment once a week or every 2 weeks is an excellent option. Also unless you have naturally oily hair and absolutely NEED to shampoo daily, I suggest missing a day. Your scalp could use some of those natural oils that have built up and shampooing daily will rob you of that.

Remember folks, Conditioner is also a form of moisturizer so make sure you are using one that suits your hair needs and giving you all the moisture that you deserve. Your hair is depending on it!

Brand Of The Week

Aphogee

Aphogee specializes in repairing broken and damaged hair. There is alot of protein in the Aphogee products, which helps aid in the reconstructing of hair during brutal times. Ive been a fan of this line for many years and have witnessed first hand results! You can read more about their product line on their website

Aphogee can be found in your local beauty supply store.

WinterTime Hair Blues

If you are an avid reader of The Hair 411, then you recently read the post regarding springtime being on the way (and I can't wait)! But before we can get there, we still have to win this war with winter weather and its drying effects on our hair and scalp.

This has been a harsh winter all over the nation and people have sacrificed their hair just to stay warm! Its quick and easy to just throw a hat on and keep on steppin'. Although we are warm, that hat is doing nothing for the integrity of our hair. Most winter hats are wool or cotton, which is terrible for hair. The fabric is very drying and draws out the moisture that we need, which in turn leads to dry, brittle and broken hair. I frown at that! When possible wrap a silk or satin scarf on your head under your hat, to trap moisture and stop any possible friction.

The key to getting through these weather traumas is moisture. Its better to be over moisturized than to be under so keep a good stock of conditioner, hot oil treatments and moisturizers on hand. Also blow dry less and avoid too much cotton and/or wool items on your hair. Beware of turtlenecks because the constant friction at the base of your head (neckline) can cause damage when turning your head. I'm not saying don't wear them, just be careful. Perhaps drape a silk scarf around your neck for added protection.  You'll protect your hair and be fashionable all at the same time. :)

Brand Of The Week

 Barry Fletcher Products

I met Barry Fletcher during my first hair show in New York City many years ago. I enjoyed his products then and I enjoy them just as much now. These products are VERY moisturizing, your hair will feel and smell great!

This isnt a product you can just go and pick up anywhere, it is usually retailed in professional salons or you can contact the company direct to find out exactly how and where to purchase.

Tell him you were referred by TheHair411.blogspot.com !!!

Product pick of the week

Got dry, flaky or itchy scalp? This is my favorite product for that.  At one time you could only get this through prescription from your dermatologist, but when it hit the shelves, I have been on it every since. I am a long time user of Nizoral since at least 2002. I use it on clients and most of all I use it on myself!

This is a good product for those who are experiencing problems and can't quite get to the doctor yet to check it out. You can find Nizoral in probably every drugstore, Wal-Mart, etc, located in the shampoo aisle. Not too pricey and you don't need to use excessive amounts of it. I'd pick this over any dry scalp product on the market. Be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions when using.
**Note: For extensive problems please see your doctor**

Widow's Peak - To Cut or Not To Cut

There are a lot of famous peaks out there. Terrance Howard, Jack Nicholson and Eddie Munster! Okay, don’t wear yours like his… how about Marilyn Monroe? Some are more pronounced than others (like Eddie’s) but that doesn’t mean it has to be a bad thing.  One of my very good friends has had issue with this topic so I feel obligated to address those who deal with this decision of cut or don’t cut. So ladies and gents THIS BLOG'S FOR YOU!

To start this off, let me just say it this way.

Dear ladies with long hair: DON’T CUT IT! That just looks weird. 

What more can I say? 

Usually the issue comes with women with shorter, crop type haircuts and of course men. For men, it’s more of an individual choice depending on style of cut that he wears. If you are a man who likes a clean-cut image, with perfect edges and lines, then you are more likely to cut it off. Just remember, once you start, you have to keep it up!  On the other hand, men with haircuts that are more of a scissor cut style, are more likely to wear the peak (or men who don't care either way!)

Now ladies with the shorter styles I suggest NOT cutting your widow’s peak. Once you do it’ll take away your feminine look and make your cut and face shape look hard and a bit mannish. If that’s the look you are going for then hey- do your thing! But overall, I would have to say no, that’s not a good look.  Not to speak bad about the barbers, because we’re all in this together, but I tend to find that male barbers have a habit of cutting ALL widow’s peaks. For women who get their hair cut at barbershops, this isn’t always a good thing. Just remember to let your desires  known to your stylist or barber before the start of service. Once its gone, it’s gone so make a decision that benefits your face and your style. Good luck and MO HAIR!

How To Get That Glow

Since childhood, everyone likes shiny things. Men love shiny cars, women love shiny jewelry…shiny items catches our attention. So why not catch the same attention with shiny hair? Make your style POP by adding some shine to it. There is nothing cute about a dull, drab hairstyle and lighter hair like blonds, tend to have less shine anyway. So let’s amp it up shall we?

OIL SHEEN - The 80’s and 90’s was full of oil sheen and many of us found we were addicted to it! The ozone layer is probably real pissed about it too! I use to carry a mini can in my purse throughout high school. For those who don’t know, oil sheen is an aerosol spray made up of oils and some smell goods. It’s used primarily in the black culture and its used to finish off a style and add a thin layer of shine and moisture. The problem is that too much can weigh your hair down and not to mention, all that oil will attract more dirt. The shine really doesn’t last very long then you find yourself needing to add more and more and more.

HAIR POLISH -  Hair polish is a lot lighter than oil sheen and doesn’t add moisture, its just purely shine. I must admit I have come across a few that has a bit of oil in them, but generally they are oil free. This is a good product for any hair type, especially those with fine hair, because it’s not too heavy. One or two pumps is all you need.

SERUM / CREAMS –  For thicker, coarser or hair that is fairly dry, a serum or cream may be your best bet. These are quite a bit thicker than the previous two items, but they coat the hair shaft to form a protective layer, usually used before any heat styling occurs. In a jar, in a pump or in a bottle, these items are in a liquid or solid form and rubbed between your hands before applying. You can use it on wet or dry hair, just be careful when adding it to wet hair because its harder to judge how much you are using until its too late. If you use too much you may have a greasy mess and will have to start the shampooing process over again.

GLAZE – A hair glaze is usually done in the salon and applied by a professional. It is similar to a rinse and is mixed with peroxide or processing liquid, to provide a longer glow instead of having to use products every day. Basically its like a top coat for your hair. You can find hair glaze products to use at home, but many times they are stronger than what is used in the salon. I suggest letting a professional do it for you. The results last a few weeks, depending how often you shampoo your hair.

Gloss, glaze, polish, sheen…they seem all the same but trust me they are all a bit different. Another thing to remember is that there are some hair gloss products that add color or will lift your color as well as adding gloss, so know what you are trying to achieve and know what you are using if you are attempting this at home. Shine on!

The Sleeping Beauty

How many nights have you gotten minimal sleep because you are trying to preserve your hairstyle?  This may not be relevant in other cultures, but this is a trying issue for women in the black community. You’ve waited all week for your appointment, stayed all day in the salon and avoided rain, humidity and sweat to maintain your look. But nighttime always comes and sleep is needed. So now what do you do- Sleep Pretty?

There is no need for you to sleep upright in order to still look cute in the morning. For years, you have been told, “Just wrap your hair up”. WRONG! Unfortunately, that is not the answer for every style. When preparing to lie down for the night, think about the shape of your hairstyle. Why tie something flat around your head if you are trying to maintain fullness? The wrong headgear can ruin a style more than if you didn’t do anything at all! So here are a few suggestions:

The bonnet is good for curly styles. Sets, afro’s, braids…actually any style. It works just like a shower cap, without being plastic. Comfortable and plenty of ventilation, so don’t worry, you won’t wake up sweating.

This is a good one for short styles. You can keep your style in order up top without having to tie it all down and re-curl every morning. Too much heat styling is never a good thing so getting through the night is imperative. This is also a good idea for medium-longer styles that are fairly straight with just a little volume up top. You can roll the top with about 5 Velcro rollers and wrap up the bottom and finish off with this type of wrap.

These types of full headscarves are great for styles that are smooth, straight or flat, like cornrows for example. If you aren't interested in having volume or body and you prefer a smoother style, then this is what you should be using. Full coverage scarves come in many styles and are easy to find every from beauty supply stores to Walmart and CVS.

Although its African American women who mainly use these items, I would suggest them for anyone. Does your long hair get in your way at night? Do you find your significant other lying on top of it? Then you too should consider these options.  And for those of you, who absolutely can't sleep with this, don't want to or your MATE doesn't want you to, then set your hair free!

  Just be sure to replace your cotton-covered pillow with a satin or silk pillowcase, to maintain moisture and prevent breakage. Good luck & Sweet Dreams!

Hair Recipes - Print & Post

 Great hair care products can be costly. And with our current economic situations, many people have opted to sacrifice their manes, in exchange for basic survival of these hard times.  But don’t fear! Even if we are broke, we don’t have to look like we are.  Your kitchen is full of items that can be used to help maintain the integrity of your hair until your next appointment. Beautiful hair doesn’t have to be expensive as you'll see below: